Wine of the Year
Vasse Felix Tom Cullity – a fitting testament to a true pioneer
Vasse Felix’s Tom Cullity cabernet sauvignon malbec 2020, the WA Wine Review Wine of the Year, had its genesis back in the early 60s when a Perth cardiologist after whom the wine is named had the idea of growing grapes and making wine in the South-West.
After investigations and assessments of the best place to grow grapes, he was convinced that a site on what was then Harman’s South Road was the most suitable. Of course, the rest, as they say, is history, and the vineyard he established which he later named Vasse Felix has become one of the premier West Australian wine estates.
In just eight vintages, beginning with 2013, the Tom, as it is referred to around the winery, has set the bar high for this combination of varieties in a style that can be traced right back to the first tentative steps from Cullity who wanted to pursue an elegant modern Australian wine style.
I have waited for this release with great anticipation. I expected it to be good. I just didn’t expect it to be quite so good.
So, let’s put some perspective on it with previous vintages. I had always rated 2018, from that other memorable vintage, as the best of the Toms, with the ’14 a close second and the ’19 from an underrated vintage in the mix as well. Every time I look at that ’19 it just gets better.
But the ’20 has taken the wine into rarefied air and is in my opinion the best Tom yet. The combination of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and a tiny amount of petit verdot come together so seamlessly and exquisitely to produce a wine of power, finesse and elegance.
Now, here’s the rub. The vines from which the Tom is sourced trace back to the earliest on the estate, and with the quality of the wines released, you might think that you sit there and just wait for them to produce their exceptional fruit year after year.
But owner Paul Holmes a Court, chief winemaker Virginia Willcock and viticulturist Bart Malony, have set their sights on taking the wine to yet another level. You can tweak and improve even older established vineyards, but Vasse Felix is also exploring different clones that they believe will eventually add another dimension.
These clones are still a little way off from making the cut for the Tom, but the indications are that they will have a noticeable impact when eventually chosen.
While Malony does his stuff in the vineyard, Willcock continues to tweak things in the winery while staying largely with the format of wild yeast, whole berry and 18 months in a mix of slightly more new than older French oak.
At a vertical tasting of all the Toms released to date, it was remarkable to see how each provided a window directly into the vintage conditions. At the same time, the consistency of the elegant and refined style that has been part of the DNA from the outset was evident.
As much as the wine is a fitting tribute to its namesake, it is also a fitting reward for owner Paul Holmes a Court and his team. Holmes a Court committed a little over a decade ago to elevate the quality of the cabernets initially and to explore a red wine that showcased the best of the vineyard and the region.
I remember sitting with him and Virginia tasting a selection of recent cabernets one evening and remarking that they were looking mighty good.
Typically, he responded: “Yes, but we can do better. We need to make and be recognised for Margaret River’s best cabernets.”
Most would say he’s got there. But knowing Holmes a Court and Willcock they have their sight firmly fixed on great things.
